| |
Motor
The motor is Brushless and Gearless so has no moving parts, it has three phases or power supply wires (think of this as a 3-cyclinder automobile engine.) Each of these phases fires in succession with the others, determined by the "Central Brain", or what is called the "PWM (pulse width modulation) Controller." Inside the motor on the outer perimeter there are many "rare earth magnets". Closer to the centre of the motor are the wire coils, also wired in three phases. As a pulse of electricity is sent to the motor from the controller the coils create a strong magnetic field, which repulses them from the magnets and causes the motor to advance (rotate) away from the magnets. The controller then sends another pulse of electricity and the next phase fires, rotating the motor even further. It's helpful to think of the automobile engine example: 3 cyclinders - each firing one after the other.
WORD OF CAUTION: There are three power (phase) wires and five Hall Effects Sensor wires coming out of the hub motor, the Hall Effect Sensor wires are thin delicate wires that can be broken. The most common reason these wires get broken is because the nuts, which secure the hub motor/wheel on the front forks are not sufficiently tightened. If the nuts are loose, there is a possibility that the motor will spin within the forks, wrapping the cable into a ball, and severing the tiny Hall Effects Sensor wires. In many cases, you cannot visually see that the Hall Effects Sensor wires are broken. When the Hall Effects Wires are severed, the motor will not fire properly, i.e., the motor will vibrate or "chatter", in much the same way that an automobile engine will run badly when one of it's cyclinders is not firing. Many people mistake the "chattering" for a bad wheel-center bearing, when it is really severed Hall Effects Sensor wires.
|
|
| |
Controller
The 36v 20A Dual Function controller can be used as Immediate Start or Peddle Assist. The two functions are selected by the rider via a switch mounted on the side of the controller. The pulses of electricity sent to the hub motor are determined by the throttle, which is mounted on the handlebars of your bicycle. The throttle is actually just a magnet passing by a "Hall Effects Sensor."
Power is supplied to the throttle from the battery. The throttle then rations a small amount of power. The amount of voltage sent to the controller is determined by how much the throttle is twisted. As the throttle is twisted, "Hall Effects Sensors" read the amount of voltage, and send this amount of voltage to the controller. The Immediate Start function lets you decide how much power you take from the motor. To conserve battery power you may choose to only use the system when you come to a junction or a hill for example. The Pedal Assist function allows the motor to work without having to use the throttle. The motor will kick in once you have started to pedal and the bike is moving. This feature is a responsive pedal assist meaning that the harder you pedal the harder the motor works. This works from a magnet and sensor that is mounted on the bottom bracket.
|
|
| |
Batteries
The 8.5AH Ni-MH batteries are in a lockable frame mounted ergonomic plastic hard case. The battery case features a Power Switch, Lock, Inline Fuse, Temperature Sensor and Charging Plug. The case is attached to the bike frame via a mounting plate and two heavy duty clips, once the mounting plate is attached the battery case can be removed in seconds to allow for charging.
|
|
| |
Specifications
36v Rear Brushless hub motor
36v Ni-Mh Battery in frame mounted case 36v Ni-Mh Battery charger 36v 20A Dual function controller Throttle with battery gauge 7 Speed Free Wheel Pedal assist adapter for bottom bracket
Range 15+ miles on power alone
|
|
